Prague - How I Love You So

Dobry Den! You gotta roll those r's to get it just right, but this is "Hello" in Czech. We started our first full day in Prague with a Panoramic tour. This was half walking tour, followed by a bus trip up to the castle and back.

Prague is just magical. No other description. It is one of the few cities in Europe which was not leveled in the Second World War, though the Soviets didn't do them many favors.

Czech Republic is the home of the founding father of the Art Nouveau movement, Alphonse Mucha. He was a good old Czech boy, born back in the late 19th Century and has a museum showcasing his works right across from our hotel in the New Town. I'm sure you'll recognize his work, it all mostly looks like this:

The buildings reflect this movement. You'll see Gothic and medieval structures, side by side with a friendly Art Deco neighbor, like these two just below. The blackened building is the old Gothic Powder Tower, next door to the Art Nouveau Municipal Building 

Municipal Center

One of my favorite stops, which I had insufficient time to appreciate was the Lennon Wall. Now, its important to know that John Lennon never actually visited Prague. However, after his murder in 1980, he became sort of a hero for pacifist Czechs, make sure to come back later for info on the "Velvet Revolution". They began to graffiti this one wall with drawings of him, art, song lyrics, etc, then every so often someone would come along and whitewash over it. Then it would come back. As time went on, the owners just surrendered to the inevitable and it became the only spot in Prague where graffiti is legal. 

Shortly after this stop, we boarded our bus and set out upon the "long and winding road" (see what I did there?) up to Prague Castle, which is somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 years old. The castle, it seems, is the seat of government so we could not tour the inside, but we could have toured the Cathedral on its grounds. It was spectacular, and Jeff really wanted to go inside. Unfortunately, due to a personal emergency, which is none of your business, we had to climb back on the bus and head back to town. 

Next up: Communism and Harry Potter

D-Day - Otherwise known as Death and Disembarkation

Man this day was bittersweet. It's tough to say goodbye to one's room/ship/friends. But then we had the "Post Cruise Extension" to look forward to. This was three nights in Prague, a HUGE bucket list item for us.

Tip#1: There is a limited amount of time to turnkey the ship. So, though it seems a bit rude to be evicted from one's room by 9:00am, the passengers coming after you won't be able to check in until whatever-O'clock so I guess it makes sense. I hate to think about those poor souls who had to catch an airport shuttle at 3AM because they did not purchase the extra Viking Air!

Tip#2: Don't be a Cheap Ass, spend the $50pp and get the Viking Air, so that you have a say so in your flight arrangements.

Tip#3: You are getting off that ship, if they have to carry you out with the dirty dishes. It probably would have been much more convenient if I had figured out, one day prior, that I was suffering from the Black Plague and needed medical care. On the morning of departure, however, standing at the counter, sniveling in snot and making this request, "Oh no problem, just tell them that when you get to Prague! Buh Bye, enjoy the rest of your trip!!"

So we embarked on our bus. For BLOODY THREE HOURS. I spent the trip huddled in my seat covered up in all my scarves and wraps, wishing for a quick and merciful death. I perked up only as we entered the City of Prague. Even in my stupor I was able to appreciate the beauty of this "Paris of Eastern Europe".

We arrived around noon and checked in at the reception desk of the Art Nouveau Palace Hotel. "Welcome to Prague! Your room will be available anytime after 3pm today, meanwhile here's a city map", advised the hapless desk agent. Nope, this wasn't going to work for me. Leaning my full weight upon the reception desk, I all but grabbed the poor sweet young lady by her lapels  and wheezed into her face "I need your help. Please. I am sick and in need of antibiotics". "Oh!" she exclaimed as her fingers flew over her keyboard, "Then you need a prescription, I'll arrange a visit from a physician shall I? And we are happy to admit you to a room early, will this work?" Yes please.

Tip#4. If ever you feel that you need to expedite the readiness of your hotel room, read the above.

Five minutes later we found ourselves shown to a room, with the promise of a visit from a local physician.

Realizing the unimaginable coolness of being in Prague - Prague! - I couldn't possibly hold Jeff back from exploring so I magnanimously suggested that he go off exploring whilst I just lay there and awaited death. He did a bit of exploration, for a brief time, but came right back, so that he could be on hand when the fatal diagnosis was delivered.  And for bonus points, he had scoped out a pharmacy, and got a general orientation of our local environs.

At around 2pm-ish, right on time, the Doctor arrived. A local cutie-pie who appeared to be around mid-adolescence and wearing street clothes. I'm assuming he had the Czech equivalent of an MD, but no way to know for sure. He had his little roller bag and a pile of carbon copy forms, and he completed his exam and made his diagnosis:

Ear Infection, likely spawned from the earlier sinus infection that I spent several posts whingeing about. He pulled out 5 or 6 boxes of medicaments: antibiotic, ear drops, pain meds and throat lozenges. He takes cash, btw.

Here is the dilemma. You gotta take all that stuff with food, so being half dead, how do I get food so that I could take my pills? Not to be deterred, Jeff propped me up, kinda like an over-served sorority pledge after a frat party, and steered me in the direction of food. Food was required. I ate food and took my meds, then asked to go back to being dead.


The drill sergeant would not allow me to die in peace and instead made me walk around and take in the sights of Prague.

This was the view from our room. We were unable to find out the exact nature of this dig, but it was cool to watch Indiana Jones and his ministers skitter about.

The excavation outside of our room

Walking into the Old Town Square at dark truly felt like we were walking into a fairy tale.

Church of Our Lady Before Tyn

The Old Town Square houses a Medieval Astronomical Clock

This is the Tower which houses the Astronomical Clock

Stay tuned where we explore more of this beautiful city.

The Bavarian Countryside - Cats and Cows and Bots

Following our morning tour of the city, we elected to purchase an optional tour, at way too dear a price, I'm sure. This was the Bavarian Farm and Countryside. All I can say about this tour is that they way oversold the value of this very long bus ride with stop at a modern dairy farm. Now, doesn't this picture below just beckon you to frolic among the hills and caper about the cattle singing something from an Oompa Band? Yet, this was not our destination.

I'd love to show a photo for comparison, but I actually think we did not snap a single pic there, just not much photo story to tell. The highlights were the robots who milk the cows, the barn cat who liked to be cuddled, and the tiny samples of cheese we received at the end of the tour. Then it was back on the bus and to our ship. The countryside was rather pretty though, so there's that. 

And that's about all I can say about this excursion. 

We headed back to our ship and enjoyed an "Enrichment Lecture" about the Danube River. Yep, once again, I was the nerd taking notes. This was followed by the bittersweet "Captain's Farewell Cocktail Party". The next day we were to depart the Tor for our next adventure: Prague. 

But I have a few more things to say before we get to Prague...

Passau - Home to Gingerbread and Cuckoo Clocks, but not Lutherans

Passau, the last stop on our cruise, and the only stop in Germany.

Our day started with the meeting of our tour guide, Brigitta. She was tiny, lively, swift, and quite a delightful beldame. "Hurry, hurry, come on now!" I'm certain we lost half our tour due to her pace.

"Anyone need go to Pee Pee Place?" Is there, hurry up now, follow me!" And off we went on a dizzying caper through the riverside hilltown of Passau. As were ALL of the towns we went through, this was lovely as well. With its old and new. This, the "bit of old" is the Oberhausmuseum. The date that you see here, is not 1999 as it somewhat seems. It is 1499. The number 4 was written as a character representing half the character of 8. I know, Hashtag mindblown. Me too.

So our walking tour was a bit of a blur. Those few of us decades younger than the sprightly Briggita, struggled to keep pace. The others sort of drifted off along the way. But I wouldn't have missed this wee spitfire for anything. She was hilarious. We had spent so much time in Austria, Hungary and Czech Republic, all predominantly Catholic that we arrived in Germany, hoping to find "our people". No chance. Our Frau let us know right off that the area was "mostly Catholic. And Tank Gott No Luterans, Ugh!". Well alrighty then. Can you pass the Gluwein?

The end of our tour saw us seated in a blessedly heated tent, staffed by a chap crowned with chefs hat, and another lady of undetermined occupation. This was a demonstration of the history of Gingerbread and the Advent Wreath and the relationship between both of these. It was fascinating, free samples notwithstanding. Leaving the tent was a bit like exiting the Star Tours ride at Hollywood Studios, takes you right into a shoppers paradise of souvenirs, kitsch, and in this case, delicious gingerbread in any flavor you can imagine.

A word about the local Gingerbread. I've had it here in the states, but there aint nothing, I repeat NOTHING, like the real thing from Germany. I'm considering the purchase of a third airline ticket for our next trip, just to house a whole suitcase dedicated to the importing of this spicy treat.

After our tour, we did as we always do. Found a Christmas market, bought some Gluwein, and searched for food. Oh boy. Brats and onions, with a side of crinkle fries, topped by a drizzle of siracha. Granted, not the most salubrious of an early dinner, but a delicious one, to be sure.

 So we wandered on, enjoying the sights and the shops. The lovely buildings, like this one

 And stumbled upon yet another unexpected Sisi Sighting. I believe this above was the hotel she stayed at when in residence.

 Oh! And here we are. Sometimes we can't actually prove that we were on the actual trip, since all the pictures are of the pretty things, and not much of us at all.

It was right around this spot that we located an "Official" Cuckoo Store. This was important. When our little girl found out that we would be going to Germany she pleaded, with all of the feminine wiles a crafty blue eyed 6 yr old can command. "Daddy" blink blink "would you buy me just one little tiny Cuckoo Clock on your trip". Oh come on (thought I), what does a 6 or 7 year old want with a Cuckoo Clock?

Well is there any doubt as to how this happened? If there is, go and Google, "Daddy's Little Girl" 

Bye for now. Next stop is the spectacularly Underwhelming Tour of the Bavarian Countryside. 

Chesky Krumlov - A Fairytale Town

After docking at Linz, we boarded the bus which took us to Chesky Krumlov, right across the border in the Czech Republic.  I've decided that this place is the Jewel of all Tiny Euro Towns (No, I haven't been to ALL of the towns, but I'm not bothered by trifles)

The lovely Vltava river runs through the town

Dating back to Medieval times, Czesky is situated along the Vltava River which gurgles and babbles peacefully right through the heart of town. If you enjoy reading up a meaty Historical Fiction romp set in the places you visit, as do I, I must recommend this book, The Bloodletters Daughter (A Novel of Old Bohemia) by Linda Lafferty.

The Rosenburg Castle towers over the tiny town from its rocky promontory. It apparently once had ties to the Mighty Roman Orisini claim. Anybody remember The Borgias? Fun Fact about this castle: It is surrounded by "The Bear Moat", so called because centuries ago, Bears were housed in said Moat. Who cares about Old Orsinis and bears? Well, the Orsini surname was derived from the latin "ursinus" meaning "bearlike", don't believe me? Grab your telescope and search for Ursa Major, "The Big Bear", see where we're going with this?

BTW, It was the tour guide who pointed out the connection between the Orisinii and the pet bear, so I can't vouch for the validity, nor what in the name of the Seven Hells the Orsini have to do with the Rosenburgs. Sadly, the bears are now history, and the moat is just a moat.

Inside the Rosenburg Castle grounds

After the castle, we found ourselves on the main town square, and in want of luncheon. We managed to find the spot recommended to us for its local fare. Please don't ask, I can neither recall, nor pronounce the name. Must be a popular place, as our Captain and some of the crew were there enjoying a pint and a bite as well. PSA: "Local" food in this part of the world is dense. Meat, Potatoes and Dumplings. Here is Himself enjoying all of the above. I ordered the cheese. 

Having been tipped off by our tour guide, whom I'm convinced receives a King's Ransom from the local artisans, I wasted no time searching up a Moldavite purveyor. This is a green a mineral exclusive to this area, thanks to a convenient meteorite impact centuries back. Shiny stones? I'm in. I found this beauty at the Moldavite Museam, it is set in between two tiny garnets, which are also native to this area. 

After lunch and rocks, we simply walked around enjoying the shops and lovely alley-ways

Art Nouveau - born in the Czech Republic 

Doesn't this place beg you to sit and stay?

I bloody have no idea what is happening here

On the ride back to our ship, our tour guide entertained us by playing a collection of local music. Surprisingly a couple of the tunes were familiar. There was a Czech version of Johnny Cash's Ring of Fire. But I choose to leave you here with this one, which I encourage you to enjoy, by clicking here Country Roads - A la Czech

Castles, Duct Tape and Stubborn Snot - or Cruising the Wachau Valley

A bit about the cruising. The boat typically travels at night, which is perfect because you awaken in the next city ready for your next adventure. However, typically part of one day is dedicated to scenic cruising. The Program Director provides commentary, which you can hear if you are in any of the common areas. And on a cold day they will provide you blankets and hot beverages if you wish to get a full 360 view on the top deck. 

Our cruising day occurred after our morning spent in Krems and we cruised through the lovely Wachau valley, if you want to pronounce "Wachau" correctly, just imagine you have a huge snot ball that you need to expectorate. That'll get you pretty close. Obviously it was winter, so we missed the foliage and vineyards in all their glory, but the sights were no less impressive. 

 
We passed by the little town of Durnstein, didn't stop, but isn't this beautiful?

Some spectacular ruins up on this hill. How cool would it be to explore those?

Note to self: Before next cruise will research the castles on the route. While it's great to see them from a distance, it doesn't quite seem real if you don't know anything about them.

So, as I was exploring the top deck of the boat, and taking in the view, I walked past the wheelhouse. This is where our erstwhile Captain navigates the Danube and all of her locks and bridges. The cool thing about these ships is that if the water level is a bit too high and the boat needs extra clearance for the bridge, the Captain simply lowers the wheelhouse and the boat glides safely under the bridge.

Here is notre Capitaine keeping a weather eye on the horizon. Kind of hard to pick him out in this picture. He is a diminutive little fellow and only the top of his head and his specs are visible from outside the window.

Note the duct tape fix here. Now, I'd like to think that this is the sum total of repairs our ship needed following a tiny encounter with a bridge, earlier in the month on this same ship, same cruise. If so, it is proven once again, duct tape is the universal fix for everything.